We thought we’d go to Georgia only for the hiking. But the more blogs we read, the more we saw how culturally rich the country was, how hospitable Georgians were and most importantly how safe travellers felt.

 

We decided that for us, Georgia was in its people, small towns and mountains and the best way to enjoy that of course would be a road trip.

 

After getting to Tbilisi, the plan for our week-long road trip in Georgia was – there would be no detailed plan. Let’s keep it fluid, explore and experience the country as it comes.

 

Tbilisi to the Black sea to the Upper Caucasus and back – 7 days of Georgia on the road

Our guest house owner at Tbilisi helped us book a car for the week and we made a rough plan – drive west all the way from Tbilisi to the Black Sea, then North-east into the Upper Caucasus mountains and back to Tbilisi.

 

We left Tbilisi and headed West visiting the ancient cave town of Uplistsikhe en route. We identified a hill town a few hours away for the night and booked a homestay.

 

That worked out so well for our first night, that it became the essence of the whole trip. We would get out each day, knowing only which direction we were headed in, stop and see the country as we saw road signs of interesting places along the way and then by afternoon identify which town we wanted to stop at for the night.

 

This is our route below (Borjomi, Gori, Martvili, Poti, Kazbegi, Ureki are some of the towns we visited) and some info.

 

 

1. Currency – We had to pay in cash at several places, especially homestays. We were able to exchange INR at local money changers in Tbilisi. Their exchange rate was much better than what is available at the airport.
2. Safety – Extremely safe to move around after dark as well. Georgians can be rough drivers so careful if you are driving late.

 

Food is a big part of the Georgian experience so here are some of our best –

1. Ureki is a tiny beach town on the black sea which is meant to have the blackest sand. It’s also quainter than visiting Batumi if that’s what you would like. Cafe Ureki was a family-run restaurant and if you would love some freshly barbecued, juicy and flavourful kebabs, then this is the place.
2. Katkha restaurant at Martvili town is a local pub in the basement of a government-office type building. It’s cute and I would suggest the house wine and the beef ostri.
3. Khachapuri, Georgian bread in many versions, each with its own name (layered with cheese, or stuffed with cheese, potatoes, leaves etc.) is everywhere. The local bakeries are the freshest and the most delicious. I loved Mchadi too – the fried corn bread.
4. Coffeshop Company in Tbilisi – had the best Mocca blonde Viennese coffee.
5. Joseph at Gori – for Georgian food
6. Food in Tbilisi – The underground places like basements were the joints popular with the locals. The food was way better than the touristy restaurants above.

 

At Kazbegi/ Gergeti, we did some of the day hikes. We used the services of an adventure group in Kazbegi to book a pick-up and drop to the starting point of the Truso valley hike. It’s a 20 km walk and it’s gorgeous. The mountainous landscape changes continuously, there are village ruins and the end point is as close as one can get to the Georgian border with Russia. Please carry your rainwear as the weather can be very unpredictable. Also carry food and water.

 

 

The Gergheti Trinity church is famous and you’ll know why when you get there. The view is spectacular and one can sit for hours watching the mountains. If you’d like to hike for the day, there are several visible trails that you can follow.

 

 

My highlights of Georgia – best enjoyed as a road trip, the Upper Caucasus are a beautiful and unique mountain range, hiking, the cuisine, local bakeries and fresh seasonal fruits.